Riding in Ireland and Ancestral History - A Bucket List Trip

 I’ve always wanted to visit Ireland due to my ancestral connections.  The more I learned about my family history, the more I wanted to walk the path my ancestors had walked, see the things they had seen, experience the beauty of the Emerald Isle as they had done. So when the opportunity arose to do all those things and also incorporate one of my favorite activities, motorcycling, I jumped at the chance.

Lisa, of Dive N Ride Adventures, was planning an all women motorcycle tour of the Ireland coast, the Wild Atlantic Way. I think my spouse, Debbie, and I were the first to join this adventure.  We met with Lisa to talk about our hopes and expectations for the trip, length of stay and a dozen other details for a trip like this one.  Lisa made a point of asking if there was anything in particular that we were interested in seeing.  I don’t think she expected the answer to be the Crudden Orphanage.

In typical Lisa form, she didn’t bat an eye, simply asked more questions about the orphanage and its significance to me.  I shared with Lisa that while I knew my ancestors came from Counties Donegal and Fermanagh, the only real place I could associate them with was the Crudden Orphanage which I thought would be in the same area, but didn’t really know.  We had a brief discussion about if or how this place might be included in our tour.  Basically the plan was that if the orphanage could be located and I would separate from the group so I could visit the site.

Weeks went by and we had periodic Zoom calls with Lisa and other women who would be joining us on the tour.  Getting to know each other a bit and learning more about what the tour would be like, continually ramping up the excitement.  During one of these meetings, Lisa mentioned that Paul from Celtic Rider who was supplying our bikes for the trip had located the site of the orphanage in Bundoran, not far off the tour route.  It would be a short detour for us to leave the group and then rejoin them a little later!

Finally, the day came when we were actually in Ireland and at Celtic Rider picking up 9 Can Am motorcycles for our group.  I cannot say enough good things about Paul and his team.  Their hospitality felt more like welcoming friends than clients, serving us hot tea and coffee along with fresh scones while we watch the orientation video.  Once everyone was packed up, geared up, and ready to go, Paul and Lisa led our gaggle of Spyders on the first leg of our journey.

The scenery was breathtaking, green and lush, and we paid the traditional “green tax” of some light rain.  I was totally enamored with the sheep along the way, so cute and oblivious of us.  One day we ended up behind a herd of sheep along with their shepherd and dogs.  It was so fun to watch the dogs work the sheep and go after the stray here & there.  Each night after the ride, we would have dinner together, talk about what we had seen and done that day.  It didn’t take long before we became friends with a connection that will last for many years.  

We walked the grounds of Kilkenny Castle and wandered the gardens of Lismore. We stood at the stones in Drombeg and people watched in Dingle. We had a snack lunch on the beach, fresh open-face crab sandwiches near Baltimore Beacon, and hot chocolate at Slieve League cliffs.  We marveled at the Cliffs of Moher, Connor Pass, and the gardens of Lismore.  We learned the joy of an Irish breakfast with tea. We shivered while people swam at Fenmore Beach and strolled about Kylemore Abbey. Each day we rode, ate, laughed, shared our joys and and a few tears along the way.

I guess I shouldn’t have been surprised when the morning we were planning our little detour to see the orphanage, the entire group decided to join us.  Lisa led us through Bundoran past a small church to a group of old building surrounded by fencing stood. While we couldn’t identify which building was the original boys orphanage, we were able to walk the perimeter of the grounds and see the monument to the Casket Girls.  We walked through the cemetery looking for some familiar names but found none.  However I did find an alternative spelling, Crudean, on the plaque outside the workhouse.  It was a touching experience, to know that in 

another lifetime, people related to me built, worked at and may have lived here. The sadness and suffering of all those souls passing through the doorway will always remain in my heart.

This was near the end of our tour.  We only had another day or two on the road, where we continued to enjoy all that Ireland had to offer.  It was the trip of a lifetime for me for so many reasons.  Many thanks to Lisa (Dive and Ride) and Paul (Celtic Rider) for going above and beyond to locate the Crudden orphanage.  You made this trip extra special for me by putting in the effort to find an out of the way place for me.  Thanks to all the ladies who joined me on my little journey in history.  Most of all, to my wife, Debbie, for making it all happen for me.